On to Salinas

This afternoon Nelly told me that the family is going to Salinas this weekend. Salinas is eight hour drive away from Cuenca. Located on the coast, I'm told that it's of the same breed as Cancun, Mazatlan, and other tourist stops in Mexico. Normally I wouldn't find that attractive, but it gives me the opportunity to see the Pacific Ocean for the first time in my life. Additionally I'll get some great photo ops as we descend from the Andes.

We had dance class again last night. I'm lacking ritmo, but at least I'm not stepping on any toes anymore. During the class, trying to dance with the Swiss girls, I shouted out, 'Fräuleins can dance with me!' Getting surly looks from a gang of Europeans, I apparently made a cultural faux pas. I was corrected quickly by Martin. "Erik, we don't use that word anymore, just Frau." I guess that's what my impudence gets me.

Last night was Flor's birthday. We went out to La Mesa, El Tranquilo, and a few others. La Mesa is a small, hole-in-the-wallish bar packed with locals and foreigners alike every night of the week. Every night I'm there, a local approaches me the next day: "Looks like you had a good time at la Mesa." Yeah, I did... uh, do I know you? They serve a mean mojito. Tranquilo is a more upscale salsa bar on the same street as my school. $5 entry for men, $2.50 for women. What's the deal? Fair deal though, considering they had free drinks until 11. Let's just say rum is no longer my friend. Nelly watched me stumble home at 4 a.m. and hasn't stopped laughing since.

My two dollar umbrella broke after its first use. Needless to say, I would advise against making purchases at a certain Chinese almacén.

I've got cooking class now. Let's pray it's not Caldo de Pata. Ecuador, I love your food. Bring on the stuffed salmon, whole roasted pigs, cuy... I'm ready for it, heartburn and all. Just please, please no more Caldo de Pata!!!

Oh the madness...

Our class visited the Cathedral del Sagrario today in old Cuenca. Now the Museum of Religious Art, the artifacts there are either art solely created by the nuns (remember, the ones that never leave?), daily tools or general artifacts of that nature.

The museum itself was built in the Nineteenth Century, but parts of the cloister date back to the Sixteenth, far older than most buildings in North America. One detail that I will mention is the European influence that persisted through the Nineteenth century. Many of the pieces in the museum are showcases of European fashion and artistic sway (Baroque, Rococo, etc.). The angel that's pictured is no exception.

As far as life is concerned here, it has been raining constantly. Cuencanos tell me that you can experience all four seasons-in one day. Guayaquil is flooded, Bolivia is flooded, even the Rio Tomebamba is flooded. Good thing I bought a two dollar umbrella, eh?

I heard that Hugo Chavez is trying to organize a cooperative army between several countries. What a level-headed, peace minded fellow.

Tonight is Flor's birthday so after dance class we are all taking her out to dinner and dancing at El Tranquilo tonight. To add even more madness, drinks are on the house until eleven. Did anyone say chuchaci?

We prefer metric

Since my arrival in Ecuador, I've been getting fatigued more quickly, taking longer siestas, and generally feeling groggy. All of that changed yesterday.

After 14 solid days of living at 2500+ meters above sea level, I finally feel like I'm bouncing back. Yesterday was the first time I kept pace with L during our daily jogs exploring Cuenca. It felt incredible. Usually I would be short of breath right off of the starting block, struggling to complete a twenty minute circuit. My body has finally adjusted to this lack of oxygen. Good thing, because my travels are taking me closer and closer to the exosphere every few weeks.

1. Cuenca 2500 m
2. Quito 2800 m
3. Cuzco 3400 m

Relieving my ignorance, Paul told me that Cuenca has roughly 10 percent less oxygen than at sea level. Oxygen is less dense in the mountains because of lower barometric pressure. For some years FIFA banned futbol games in Quito because of the (12 percent less) level of oxygen there. This must be why high altitude training must be gaining so much momentum lately. Athletes train in the mountains because red blood cells are more concentrated to cope.

Caro and I threw about twenty bombas at L when she came home today. She got her revenge before lunch though, hehe... As the weekend draws closer, so does Carnaval. Tensions are high, children are arming, and eyes are drawn towards balconies in fear.

We may go to Salinas for the weekend with our family, but it hasn't been decided. Otherwise, our goals this week include:

1. Cajas National Park
2. Cuy
3. Find another excursion -- in Saraguro -- if Salinas doesn't Pan out.

Baños...finally

I finally made it to Baños this weekend. Imagine a colonial villa, white plaster walls, terra cotta roof, saunas, pools, etc. I'm sure you get the idea. L and I met up with Flor, a severely hungover British Jack, and Priscilla (L's new Cuencana friend). We took the Number 11 bus to the hills on the outskirts of Cuenca.

I had gotten a serious case of food poisoning early that week, so it was a trip from hell for Jack and I. He was scrambling to find a suitable place to "chunder," while I was doubled over in my seat, reliving Aliens.

I was imagining some sort of primordial, steaming pool, reminiscent of Precambrian Earth. Instead I got a health spa... works for me. The hot water actually cured my stomach ache!!! For the next few hours the five of us enjoyed the pool's relaxing qualities. You'll notice in some of my photos that I have taken to wearing pens as jewelry. This is not a fashion trend in Cuenca. I lost my earrings doing a backflip into the pool. Oh well. What better place for them to end their use than in a pool in Ecuador?

This was a perfect way to end my second week in Cuenca... perfectly relaxed. Especially since I took my first exam on Friday. While not all of us were at our peak, Jack put it best: What better place to nurse a hangover than poolside in Ecuador?

Gualaceo

At 9 a.m. this morning, 19 students piled into a bus. Destination... the Ecuadorian countryside. L and I have been stoked about this all week, because it was our first trip outside of Cuenca since our arrival. As the old tourer lumbered out of Cuenca into the Andes, I couldn't help but recall the first time seeing mountains bigger than the glacier-carved hills bordering Lake Superior. To be able to see summits one was required to tilt their head back a full 90 degrees. We're talking high people. Our driver navigating the gently sloping highway, ground deep into the highlands, my regret of not bringing my longboard began to surface; a 20 degree grade, sloping and curving for miles... beautiful.

Our first stop took us to a traditionally constructed home, whose family still practices the art of hand crafted wool works. It was a shock to a 21st century North American living in the Information Age to see wool-on-hand powered spools. It was comforting, seeing that the world is not entirely run by machines. A machine couldn't match the care and craftsmanship put into each piece.

Next stop took us to Gualaceo, a small town 30 or so minutes outside of Cuenca. The group toured a bustling farmers' market, populated by more rural Ecuadorians in dress and culture. Quite a breath of fresh air! The market itself was better than every other of its kind that I have seen. Even the Capitol Square; sorry K.

Our Sampere professor then guided us through an adjacent market, situated in an arena-like structure, hosting vendors of every kind. Produce, beef, whole pigs, cuy (yes cuy!) and lunch of local fare was available en masse. L and I were so caught up in the bustle that the group left us behind. We were nervous, yes, but only that they were having more fun than us. Thanks L...

We finally found our group lounging on the banks of Rio Santa Barbara, where the town was celebrating Carnaval a little early. Food stalls, live animals, merch... a real fair. Fathers were being dragged into the river by sons (a la Festivus), youths were playing every water game imaginable. Boys and girls alike were waiting for that golden opportunity to refresh a stranger with the waters of Rio Santa Barbara. They even wanted to play Carnaval with us foreigners. L, I could have stopped them... eh... but it was just too funny!!!

I made it to Banos yesterday. Ill throw some pics up with a short post for you all. I figure I owe you that much, with all the build-up this past week.