Nice work Erin!

Today was our last day of class at Sampere. Of all the things I've learned in the past four weeks, L and I both agree that we're finally getting a grip on el subjuntivo, or subjunctive verbs. Thank God. It's been tormenting me for years, these "would verbs." I know that my classmates will be in tears when I'm not strolling in to class at 7:49 a.m. on Monday morning. They'll have to carry on with out me.

After lunch -- cow hoof and rice in sauce -- L and I visited an orphanage for girls in Cuenca where our friend Erin worked for several months this fall. Erin gave L several gifts to give the girls, including toothbrushes, stickers, pencils and tattoos. I was told they don't get many male visitors, and I could tell immediately. I was surrounded by a dozen curious children asking everything one could in ten seconds. They were especially interested in my earrings. Why do you have both ears pierced? Those are huge holes in your ears...did it hurt? Can I see them? Take your earrings out!

The kids were all a lot of fun, and the staff and children alike were grateful for the visit and gifts.





Erin made a serious impact in their lives as a teacher and as a friend. Her presence has not been forgotten since she left, and I doubt it will be for a long time. This experience taught me how little it takes to make a big impact in a child's life. Reach out, be a mentor. Trust me, you will be appreciated!

Tonight L and I are going to Flor's hostel to make pancakes and drink zhumir. We're all anxious for this treat, as long as you hold the rice please. Tomorrow, Lenay and I want to go to Ingapirca, one of the largest Incan ruins in the Andes. It is called "The Second Cusco."

I'm going to eat some pancakes... ¡Buen Provecho!

Next week... into the Amazon jungle.

Good Afternoon, Doctor Jones

Today marked the first day back at Sampere in nearly a week. We missed the first two days back since Carnaval, but there lies the trade-off. Needless to say our instructors were glad to see us back.

I feel much better after leaving Salinas and La Costa in general. Between drinking sea water, and the warm temperatures, my body could take it very well. I suppose I am not that accustomed to traveling. Not that La Costa was the cleanest place in the world. For those of you who've seen the "dirtiest toilet in Scotland" scene in Trainspotting, the few I saw were on par.

Our class went to Homero Ortega Panama hat factory and museum after school one day. Apparently Cuenca is the world's largest exporter of Panama hats. Originally and also called La Paja Toquilla, these hats were made famous by the ubiquitous canal. There were hats for sale at fifteen dollars, and several for as much as three thousand dollars. Who would buy a three thousand dollar hat? I'd just lose it in a week anyways.

I will admit, watching the German speakers in our group try on the hats, I thought about characters in the Indiana Jones series. I know, I'm a dork

At 6:30 tonight, we went to the house of a professor to learn how to make Encebollado de Pescado. Basically it's fish soup. Normally I wouldn't eat something like this, but we used albacore tuna, which has a rather mild flavor. It was actually pretty good. We also made a juice from mora. This is a sour, seedy red fruit that tastes kind of like a rasberry. We blended mora, sugar and water, and then strained the seeds. ¡Que rico!

L and I are drawing near to the end of our time in Cuenca. I'm feeling a little down because of it. It's hard to leave a city that you have become so comfortable with. But that is the nature of traveling. I will miss all of the new friends that I've made in the last four weeks. My family has treated me as one of their own. Everyone has been so hospitable. We are all in a state of transition right now.

Cuenca is not South America, there is so much more to see beyond this city. L and I are anxious to experience what lies ahead. This transitive nature makes traveling what it is. It's about moving around! The excitement, the surprises, it's a complete adventure for us.

As they say... the show must go on.

Fun in Salinas, part three

Carnaval. Whoo!

So I've been writing about the big festival these past few weeks. I thought it was bad in Cuenca. Well in Salinas, it's ground zero. I'm talking roads, shoulder to shoulder filled with filthy, stinking youths, showering each other with eggs, water balloons, water buckets, and this foamy aerosol called karaoka. I was bathing in this stuff within minutes of arriving in Malecón (downtown Salinas). Malecón is the beach-front area that is typical of its type -- high-rise apartments, hotels and surf shops.

L and I got to Malecón at 10:30 p.m. that night and bought cans of karaoka to defend ourselves. They usually cost two dollars a can, but we bargained vendors down to three for five dollars. The people here spare pregnant women, small children and the elderly (sometimes). It's like an apocalyptic Mardis Gras, and everyone's invited. You walk down the street -- BAM! -- you're sprayed. You try to fight back -- BAM BAM BAM -- their friends have got you now. The sidewalk turned into a slip and slide!

Police were there, but they didn't do much to stop the carnage. I would find a group of girls to spray, and thirty seconds later I'm looking like the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man. As I look to the apartment buildings, people are dropping bucketfuls of water from nine stories up. This is crazy.

This frenzy lasts until 4 a.m. every morning, through Fat Tuesday... I don't know if I'll make it. There's just so much foam!!! People are literally crying from the stuff covering their face, stinging their eyes, and staining their clothing all colors imaginable. I'm coming back next year though.

Happy Birthday to my brother and cousin. I'll toast to each of you tonight!

Do not come to Malecón during Carnaval if you are looking for a tranquil evening. You'll live longer too.

Fun in Salinas, part two

We puled into Salinas on Friday night, where it was noticeably hotter and muggier. Paul's brother owns a vacation house within a gated community in town. Imagine a Desperate Housewives telenovela (or for my Spanish classmates, Viudas de los Jueves).

The whole extended family went to the beach on Saturday morning. On the way there we loaded the car with water balloons and pelted many grateful victims on the 10 minute ride to the beach. It's 32 degrees (Celsius) here. The beach is lined -- end to end -- with tents, parasols and people. Vendors of every type walk the beach, peddling their goods: beer, ice cream, peanuts, jewelry, jewelry holders, sandals, swimsuits, boat rides, everything you need for the beach is available on the beach. And then some. The scene is dominated by to brand names, Pilsener and Pinguino. But then, who doesn't like beer and ice cream at the beach?

Saturday was a momentous day in my life. It was the first time I had seen the Pacific Ocean. It was pretty rockin'. On the other hand, I swallowed a little too much ocean water and have been paying for it with three days of stomach pains. Ya win some, ya lose some...

The sun beats down on you here at the equator like Duluth in July. Good thing I have SPF 50 sunscreen -- thanks Mom!. Between riding jet-skis to playing frisbee to racing to out to the buoys and back, we were all pretty exhausted by the end of the day.

Salinas is the getaway for all Ecuadorians who like the beach. I haven't encountered many foreigners here yet. But nevertheless, I am getting a certain spring break vibe.

Fun in Salinas, part one

We left for Salinas on Friday afternoon. Paul, Nelly, L, Caro and her friend Estephanie piled into the family's Toyota Camry, and and began our trip to the coast. The countryside outside of Cuenca is absolutely beautiful! Everything is green, the road is nestled in between the sharp rising hills. They are dotted by cows, other farm animals, the occasional village, and luscious foliage. Very, very green. Furthermore, there are boulders every few hundred meters that have fallen from cliffs onto the highway.

The road we traveled through the Andes took us through Cajas National Park. Sitting on the far side of the Andes from the Pacific Ocean, it doesn't receive that much moisture. The hills are colored a slightly drier shade of green, but the views are absolutely breathtaking. Cajas (or "boxes") is named so for the square -haped lakes dotting the area. At the top of Cajas is the continental divide of the Andes. It sits at 4200 meters. Paul had me drink from many of the mountain springs. Don't worry, they're virgin.

As we descended from the Andes into the La Costa region, we noticed a definite change in scenery. Because of a rain shadow effect, this side of the Andes is in a near perpetual state of fog. The temperature increased dramatically, and the plants became a lot more tropical. We even saw a huge spider in the middle of the road!

We pulled into Puerto Inca to eat dinner. The town recently suffered flooding, so half of the town is under water. Instead of eating, L made friends with a local and did a little exploring. Some 45 minutes goes by, and there's no sign of her. As we are packing up, she returns, soaked from the shoulders downward. L's new friend showed her the ruined house she lived in and the surrounding wreckage. Health issues aside, the pictures are quite incredible.