OLE, OLE OLE OLE!!!

Anticipation was high as L and I took the 30 minute metrobus ride to the stadium last night. I had no idea of what to expect. Sure, I've been to a Minnesota Thunder game once when I was 11 years old, but what kind of comparison is that? Fútbol is in the blood of all Ecuadorians, and for that matter, the rest of the world. The sport encompasses all other aspects of culture, politics, regionalism, you name it. They live for these games!

Thousands of people were crowding outside of the entrance before the match started. Dozens of vendors were selling candy, tickets, jerseys, jackets, scarves, hats, flags, umbrellas, and ponchos. At the stadium there are two kinds of seating. There was general -- which sits behind either goals in the open for six dollars a ticket. Manolo suggested that we buy Tribuna seating, for ten dollars, which sits on either side of the field. These seats are also located under the roof, which explains the jacked-up cost.

As we walked into the stadium, the opening ceremony began. Fireworks, and the shouting, cheering and cussing of thousands of Quiteños drowned out any thought I had beforehand. L and I were completely in awe.

The air was electric. I've been to games before, but the concerted cheering was simply awesome. On the far side in general were all the die hard fans. Before and through the entire game, they were jumping in unison, chanting, and waving the Liga flag. I want to learn at least one of the dozen chants I heard. A few words from one were, "Me voy a tomar una cerveza." That pretty much sums it up right there. General seating is where the spirit is at. That's where I'll be next game.



As for the match itself, Liga Deportiva Universitario (Quito) played against Fluminense, a Brasillian team based out of Rio de Janeiro. This match is part of for La Copa Santander Libertadores de América. It's an international tournament whose qualifying teams are some of the best in South America. In short, it's a big deal here. I was wondering throughout the match, though, if Liga gets a noticable advantage because of the altitude. Back and forth the entire 90 minutes, the match ultimately ended in a draw. At least there were a lot of bookings ,though; even the Liga goalie earned a yellow card for his aggression. Very intense.

OLE!

I'm eating your pet

We went to La Mitad del Mundo today. THE CENTER OF THE WORLD, PEOPLE!!! It's this really tourist-oriented landmark, with shops, restaurants, tours, and a monolith.

Funny thing is, it's not really on the equator. It's really a few kilometers away on top of some hill. Because of gravity's weakened pull at the equator, everybody's weighing a few pounds less here. We took a tour of the volcanic crater of Puluahua.

In the center of the crater is a farming community of some 300 people. At noon, temperatures can reach 26 degrees Celsius. By one o'clock, fog descends upon the crater completely. By five o'clock, 0 degrees. Crazy.



We tried cuy today at a restaurant. It just tastes like really salty chicken. Lots of bones. Our cuy was really skinny. L thought that it was anorexic in life, so we named her Ana. At least she's gone to a better place.

We're going to a fútbol game tonight -- Liga Deportiva. That's the really popular team from Quito that won the national championship last year. Manolo is a diehard fan, so I think he may be going with us. This is my first soccer game in South America so I'm really excited. So long as the rain holds out.

Statues scare me

So everyone at the Spanish Academy has been telling me about how dangerous Quito is. Students apparently get mugged weekly. The head instructor flipped when he caught me wearing my camera case outside of my clothes. How stupid of me. Because of all the hype, L and I have been a little on edge since getting here. I don't want my camera stolen! So far so good, though.

Last night our new host father Manolo told us about Quito; the best musuems, churches, landmarks and other boring places to visit. It doesn't bother me. I love it! I took the Quince de Agosto bus line downtown to find a bank. (Just to sidetrack, all of you in the states are lucky to have the level of madness you do on the road. Quito is like running the gauntlet. Darwin's test for survival. You have to learn to be aggressive here.)

Every time we go into a Supermaxi, L thinks that I am completely in awe of a foreign grocery store. Hey, maybe I am. It's way different. The delis only have ham. It's weird. Who eats ham every day? I'll try to sneak some photos in this week, because it's so cool.

This afternoon was marked by a visit downtown. And probably eight miles of walking. We took the trolley bus downtown, and exited like, seven blocks to early. We explored some market that sells everything from shoes and jerseys to machetes and hardware. Who doesn't need a machete? After exploring the Plaza Grande, I found the Casa de Sucre. Sucre was a general during the war for independence here, a national hero.



Then we walked to the Panecillo, a huge stone statue of the Virgin Mary. It took us an hour to walk to the top, while being rained on and chased by dogs.

Finally, we went to El Museo de la Ciudad. It focuses on Quito's history since it's foundation, subsequent colonization by Spain, and so forth. Tomorrow we're going to La Casa de Cultura. Imagine New York's Museum of Natural History, but in Spanish (I think).

Back to Quito, or why I love FARC

Well I've made it back to Quito. It's been raining constantly all day. I'm not in Minnesota, but after leaving the Amazon, well damn, wool socks weren't such a bad idea.

I'm living with some interesting Quiteños this week. Sr. Manolo is a master painter. The house is filled with his masterpieces. Sra. Zaida hails from the coast, and as the Ecuadorian stereotype goes, can cook just about anything. Fresh cheese, bread, delivered unpasteurized milk. She knows the gamut of Ecuadorian cuisine and has a story for ever dish. She's making me Seco de Pollo this week. I'm excited. Their children are musicians, painters, and sculptors. I'm living among artists.

Ok, here's a quick recap of the rest of my Amazon trip.

On Friday afternoon, Jose brought us to a local Quechua community. It is a village of two extended families. We were brought inside the house of the town matriarch and given a lesson on Quechuan lifestyle. We sampled chicha, a fermented drink made from yuca (an Amazonian root that tastes a lot like a potato). I didn't drink too much as it's not refrigerated, and the body needs time to acclimate. Jose told me its what Quechuans usually drink, especially at parties. And that it causes one hell of a hangover.

On Saturday, we lashed five inner tubes together and went floating down the Río Anzu -- Jatunyaku and Anzu merge to form the Río Napo. Who's gone tubing down the Amazon? Bizarre, but overall a fun experience. The river was pretty cold, a surprise. Then a leisurely day turned hectic as we passed several rapids before calling it quits.

That night a camera crew showed up and started filming this twenty year old German girl named Linda. I learned that reality videos featuring young girls abroad are pretty popular in Deutschland right now. Strange. Her Scottish friend started comparing the U.S. military to FARC, so I retired pretty quickly. I definitely do not support the actions in Iraq. I suppose I'm am weary of being implicated with Iraq by nearly every European I meet. This is going to happen, though, so I need to get used to it. All I can say to my countrymen is that our vote counts (hopefully) for more than other foreign citizens given the disproportionate power the U.S. wields in the world. Get out the vote. Avert the tragedy that's befalling our country right now.

I got back to Quito on Sunday afternoon. L and I settled back into our Quito home. Besides playing catchup here, I have been planning our schedule for the last two weeks in Ecuador.

Quito has a lot of museums to offer, the Mitad del Mundo, and forty plus churches. This week we're going to cram that in. Then we'd like to go to Otavalo on Friday. I'm told it has a huge market on Saturday mornings, as well as waterfalls, mountains, villages, and so on nearby. Next week we're probably going to Pastocalle, a village two hours south of Quito to live with an indigenous family. Technically called community tourism, L and I will be helping with a farm and other rural activities.

Thanks again, Academía de Español Quito. This trip was a serious windfall. Recommendations to everyone. NRCSA definitely has done their homework with this program.

I read about NIU today. I don't understand why this is turning into a perennial tragedy. There's a girl at the Spanish academy who usually attends there. She was stunned. My heart goes out to them.

Sacharuna, Man of the Jungle

Dateline: Tibetan Paradise, Napo, Ecuador; February 14, 2008

Last night we left Amarongachi. Since it's winter it rains pretty much every day in Ecuador. Especially here in the rainforest. Nothing dries out. The clothing I wore climbing the waterfalls Tuesday is still soaked. Even my notebooks are damp. It's a perpetual sticky climate. I'm getting used to it though, and plus, it beats the Midwest this time of year (sorry guys). As much as I loved horror stories of the jungle (as told by Enrique, our resident Quechua apprentice shaman) told by candlelight, it's a good time to move on.

If you didn't know, there is a Tibetan paradise (known as Shangri La), to be found in the Amazon. It looks a lot like something out of Swiss Family Robinson. The amenities here far outstrip those at the previous campsite: hot water, a fully stocked bar, electricity, and a 100 meter overlook of the Napo region. It's sitting on the edge of a cliff people! The entire complex is a giant treehouse, an open air dining room of Sybarism.

Jose (or Usi in Quechua) was awaiting our arrival. Our guide at Shangri La, he began lessons in his native language. He gave us Quechua names as well. My new name: Sacharuna, Man of the jungle. He has been making me earn it since.

He took our group through a series of canyons, carved for centuries by streams meandering towards the Río Napo. Before then, We snacked on ants, tasting strongly of lime. Good protein.

Then canyons: squeezing between rocks, wading through streams, climbing vines that reach the canopy. I did it all. Oh yeah, and I crawled through bat shit. Lots of it. Besides reeking, these pesky critters kept flying into my face while I was trying to negotiate the caves, and jimmy myself up a six meter cliff. All in a days work.



This area is absolutely stunning. Everything around me was green. Palm fronds bending down in a haphazard manner. Hummingbirds build nests underneath several fronds, stealing cobwebs from nearby spiders as building material. My general feeling of the area is green. Obvious, yes, but the colors are so vibrant. Never in my life have I seen so many different kinds of plants in one place We were shuffling between cliffs, careful not to scrape against its jagged edges.

It can't be imagined. It can't be recreated. The Amazon is incredible.

Welcome to the jungle

Dateline: Middle of nowhere, Napo Province, Ecuador; Feb 12, 2008

I'm hiding under some palm thatched cabins, cowering from a torrent of tropical rain deep in the Amazon rainforest. Well not that deep, only forty-five minutes away from civilization. But it's the Amazon!!! When we run out of potable water I'll just step outside and quench my thirst on the tears of God. It ain't heavy...

A 20 year old Quechuan guide named Freulan (or Andy if you prefer) took our Quito group on a three hour trek through the primary rainforest. It's protected by law as a reserve, so nobody harvests plants, searches for gold, or harms the land. You get the picture.

Wearing knee-high rubber galoshes we hike upstream for over two kilometers. Freulan brought 100 feet of rope along to haul our asses up not one, but two torrential waterfalls. I had to find footholds at a 65 degree grade slope, all the while hundreds of gallons of water are bearing down upon me. Nearly losing my glasses in the climb, I made it too the top quite quickly. Too bad I couldn't bring my camera along. It was absolutely beautiful scenery.

Our first campsite is Amarongachi, a rustic cabin complex 15 minutes off the beaten path from the dirt road where we were dropped off. It is located on the banks of the Rio Atunyaku, Quechua for Rio Grande). They had running water, but by night I was eating dinner at a candle lit table, reflecting on how soft my life is in suburban America. I guess it just reminds me how human we are without machines.