Why did it have to be Snakes?

Back in Pisac, on our way to Machu Picchu, We all bought tourist tickets, which allowed entrance to a variety of archeological sites and museums in and around Cusco. 10 days later, Lenay and I did some last minute sight seeing to get our money's worth. On Esater sunday we visited Saqsayhuaman, the ruins of an Incan fortress overlooking the city of Cusco. Unique from Machu Piccu, the masonry there is originally Incan. I heard there are stones there three times as tall as a man. We had to go.

Leaving the house that morning, I took the huerto busline to take me to Cristo Blanco, a giant white statue of Christ adjacent to the ruins. Piling into one of Cusco's ubiquitous combis (conversion van), I was greeted by it's chaperon, a young Cusqueño boy who said he was twelve, though looked two years younger. As the combi ascended the hills overlooking the city, the young worker sheperded more and more passengers into the van, untill all its seats were filed, and half a dozen were left crouching, with next bent from the short celing. 15 minutes later we paid the child worker sixty centimos each, and debarked from the combi.

Just the sheer size of the ancient fortress's masonry is staggering. The Incan craftsman used gigantic pitch-black basalt, a volcan stone that is common in the area. The largest stones form the base of the ruins. Two armspans wide and probably three times as tall. Historians are still baffled at how they we moved...uphill. Speculation continues to this day.

As a testament to these masters of stone, not one sheet of paper could fit between two boulders, they were chiseled so finely. Incans did use mortar and smaller stones when more pragmatic construction was required, but thought it to be shoddy workmanship. The quality of construction in Cusco has been compared to that in Giza and Tenochtitlan. These people were one of the great masters of stone.

Local history tells of tunnels that connect the fortress with the cathedral in the plaza de Armas, in the city square. Over the centuries treasure hunters have taken ceramics, gold and other relics from within the subterranean labyrinth. Other curious explorers have died trying to navigate the catacombs beneath the city. I also learned that this tunnel system connects Cusco to other locales, even Machu Picchu! Naturally, it's something I'd want to try. Paying a local guide to take me to its entrance, I was dismayed to find out that years ago an earthquake covered the entrance with a craggy piece of Incan stairway...Looks like I'm visiting the cathedral! Just as long as there are no snakes. I hate snakes...

Returning to Cristo Blanco, Lenay and I admired a statue which shines down on the people of Cusco daily. At night it is illuminated and is an iconic symbol of the city.

On the twenty minute walk down from the fortress to the plaza de Armas, I encountered a wandering llama, strolling through the streets of Cusco. Normally tourist pay money for snapshots withthese creatures, so we got a few in. I started thinking about this opportunistic situation. I've always wanted a llama! We named him Pepe and took him home.