Thursday, April 10, 2008

What's a Stone?


We disembarked from the ferry and were ushered ashore by Nestor. Following the accents of my British compatriots, I wandered up a stone pathway, wide eyed at yet another beautiful island. More mud brick houses lined the hillside, flanked by terraced gardens, it's visitors being hummingbirds. I found this strange for the climate. The walkway led to the main square of Taquile island. It was really a miniature plaza, cobblestone streets worn to sand. To add to the ambience, a white washed colonial era church stood nearby, with its very own grass covered, ancient and decaying fifteen foot bell tower.

Nestor taught us these people still follow the old Incan Mantra-
1. Do not lie
2. Do not steal
3. Do not be lazy

This islands did not always bear the name Taquile. In pre-colombian times, it was called Inteca, or sun flower in Quechua. A Colonial Spanish govenor's ego changed that quite quickly, however.

The people of Taquile are far different from those of Amantani. Numbering around two thousand people, this community lives for each other. No one is rich, poor or varied in dress. Houses are all similar and jobs are rotated on a communal basis. All of the income earned by the community is distributed equally, regardedless of role. Furthermore, ninety percent of the population remains on the island for the entirety of their lives. This place is a successfull, inclusice socialistic community. But it sure takes all of the fun out of tipping when it goes straight to the pot, eh?

Even the restaurants are egalitarian. Each one takes turns serving tourists he local trout, the fish is scarce for the local people. Trucha de la plancha, this delicious fish straight out of the lake was served en masse. While never caring for it as a child, I have been cultivating a great love for fish since arriving here in January. This meal only added to my growing taste.

After an 11AM lunch we hiked through the village, making note of the agrarian presence on Taquile. Growing maize, quinoa, papas and okra, the community sustains it's principal agrticultural needs. This craggy patch of nine square kilometers takes care of them. I saw few cows, sheep and chickens. The land demands of raising livestock equates them to a nearly vegetarian existence, much like Amantani.

One of the most notable points of interest is the artesanal center. Commended by UNESCO, the men and women (apart from farming) support themselves through their craft-weaving. I saw beautiful hats, scarves shirts and the like for sale. These products are exported throughout Peru, because of their fame.

The trip back to Puno lasted three hours. While Lenay slept belowdeck, I spent my time warming up under the autumn sun, chatting with two Austrians and an English couple.

Key conversation points-
1. Gordon Brown and Basra
2. A fifteen stone lesbian rock star
3. What's a stone?
4. How many pounds are in a stone? (14 lbs.)
5. Wayne Rooney (an ongoing fascination)
6. The drug addled Amy Winehouse's success in Britain
7. The Austrian's alpine castle, now a white elephant hostel
8. Tony Bourdain, and his hack 'n' slash writing wit

Three hours of cross cultural nonsense...

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